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Midnight Madness

November 14, 2012

Midnight tonight will be the third Thursday of November. If you are anything like me, you just thought, “Really?” I know, where does the time go. Thanksgiving will be here next week, and I haven’t even picked up my free Price Chopper turkey (with coupon and $75 purchase). I’m not even sure what I’m going to bring down to Connecticut to surprise and delight my cousin. Last year it was a selection of things from Adventure in Food Trading. This year I suspect I’ll be carting down some treats from The Cheese Traveler.

But back to this third Thursday business. Besides the alliteration, the date is significant because it’s the first day that the French government allows the current vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau to be sold. So officially the party begins tonight. Unofficially, the party is tomorrow at the Hilton Garden Inn. You can buy tickets here, and chef Ric Orlando says it’s going to be a swinging good time. Apparently Metroland agrees. Or at least it has in the past.

And as luck would have it, I’ll be there wearing closed toed shoes and doing my best to look respectable. If you are there too and recognize me in my “cocktail attire,” please come up and say hi. Events like this always make me wish I had a pair of cocktail pants.

Now, this is a lot of marketing hoopla for a not terribly significant wine event. You may be wondering, why do some people go gaga for this Gamay while others are openly scornful of Beaujolais Nouveau?  Well, I’m glad you asked.  I knew people would want to know this year after year, so I wrote down the answer.

Originally posted November 29, 2009

People shouldn’t hate Beaujolais Nouveau categorically. There is some good Nouveau.

The original idea was that bottling the wine in its infancy serves as a good indication for the quality of the grapes from that past year.  Here is the rough timeline.

1) 2012 grapes harvested and pressed: September 2012
2) 2012 Beaujolais Nouveau available: November 2012
3) 2012 Beaujolais Cru* available: November 2013

If you are a wine geek, doing stuff like this is a lot of fun.  And even if you are not a wine geek, there is still joy to be found in select bottles of Nouveau.

However, serious wine drinkers have for a long time looked down their long noses at this bottling.  Beaujolais Nouveau is technically wine, but just barely.  It is the fermented juice of the Gamay grape from the Beaujolais region that has been vinified for the minimum amount of time to qualify as wine.

It is not a wine of depth and complexity that these self-described serious wine drinkers prize.  Instead, at its best (in the words of John & Dottie) the wine is, “So fresh, so lively, so utterly unpretentious, [it’s] like popping a ripe grape right into our mouths.”

The problem of course is finding the wine at its best.  John and Dottie wrote extensively about Beaujolais Nouveau yesterday, and they chronicled the fall in quality of the wine over the past several years.  According to my favorite duo, things started to change for the better with the 2007 vintage.  But by then, the damage to its reputation had been done.  Now it is difficult to find a wide selection of producers on store shelves.

But a big part of the appeal of the wine isn’t actually what is in the bottle, but what it represents.  As winter is fast approaching, and the leaves are falling off the trees, Nouveau offers a taste of new life.  For some it has become part of the celebratory atmosphere of the season.  And that’s fine too.

I think the below sentiment from Kermit Lynch in his 2008 newsletter sums it up nicely:

I don’t love Beaujolais Nouveau, but I love the idea behind it and I love our Beaujolais Nouveau and living it up at our annual parking lot feast.  With you we make a party of it, a Dionysian tribute to the year’s harvest and newborn wine.

Why does almost everybody filter and otherwise technologically massacre their Nouveaux with tones of SO2, cold stabilization, even pasteurization, and so on?  A Nouveau should be alive and kicking, and even if you are the type who fears a deposit, our Nouveau is bottled and drunk up in a couple of weeks – there’s no time for it to throw a deposit.  Here you will enjoy the real thing, raw, au naturel, life-affirming.

But it pays to keep an open mind.  Just recently I was critical of the restaurant Provence for hosting a wine dinner celebrating the 2009 Nouveau by pouring guests the mass-produced Georges Duboeuf bottling.

In yesterday’s column, John & Dottie ranked it Good/Very Good.  This is what they had to say:

We first called this “a little too made,” which made us figure, although its label was concealed in a brown bag, that it was the Duboeuf.  It seems less rustic, more like a finished wine than the others.  But as it warmed and opened, it became earthy, with richer fruit than most, and we became increasingly charmed.  It’s the most interesting Duboeuf Nouveau we can remember.  This is a good thing since it’s so widely distributed.

And as I read that, I think back to Kermit’s words.  Certainly the Duboeuf sounds like an interesting wine.  I trust John & Dottie.  But it does not sound very much like a Nouveau.

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* There are three levels of Beaujolais after the novelty of the Nouveau bottling fades.
1) Beaujolais – Wine sourced mostly from the southern part of the region.
2) Beaujolais-Villages – Wine from thirty-nine northern villages.
3) Beaujolais Cru – 10 specific high quality villages: Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Regnie and Saint-Amour.

5 Comments leave one →
  1. llcwine permalink
    November 14, 2012 10:04 am

    I haven’t attended the release party in years, and can’t again this year…but I will be picking up a couple of bottles tmrw!!!

  2. John permalink
    November 14, 2012 11:29 am

    Somewhat off topic, but since you mention Adventure in Food, are you aware that they no longer have a retail operation? I tried going there a couple of weeks ago.

  3. November 14, 2012 1:29 pm

    Heyo John,

    We haven’t had a retail operation for 6 years, nor have we been at that location for six years. If you go to our website, http://www.adventureinfood.com, you will notice that our address is 381 Broadway in the Capital Region Farmers Market in Menands. While we are a wholesaler, we receive quite a bit of traffic from the general public, and welcome it. Feel free to stop by anytime.

    Best,
    AIF

    • John permalink
      November 14, 2012 2:15 pm

      I went to the Menands location. I went inside and spoke with someone, and was told that there was no more retail operation. I wasn’t looking for anything in particular, I had planned to browse and see what I found. I guess you are saying that you would have sold me something if I had asked for some particular item?

      • November 14, 2012 2:24 pm

        Hum. This is extremely odd to us, John. We never turn anyone away. We switched our hours to the public from 8 am to 12, but if someone shows up beyond those times, we never tell them that they cannot buy from us.
        I asked around the warehouse and our warehouse manager did remember a couple, a male and a female, come in together a couple weeks ago and ask if we had a retail location, to which responded that we only do wholesale, but feel free to shop around. Was this perchance you; did you bring your wife? If that was the case or any other, please know that we never turn anyone away from our door unless we’re closed. Feel free to browse to your hearts content – we love visitors.

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