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Ice Cream: Out the Window

May 19, 2011

Well, this is embarrassing. And if you know anything about me, it’s that when I’m embarrassed about something, I’m compelled to share it.

Just yesterday, I wrote about how when it comes to ice cream, there are no good choices when it comes to national brands. You have to make some kind of tradeoff between food gums, antibiotics and hormones.

I actually do own an ice cream machine. It’s one of those easy Cuisinart ones. My little sister gave it to me as a present years ago. And we use it occasionally. My experience has been that the ice cream is amazing when it’s first mixed, but I’ve never been able to make anything that I’ve liked after it’s sat in the freezer overnight. It just gets hard and chunky.

Don’t you dare tell me I need to use cream with mono and diglycerides or carrageenan.

So the obvious question is, “Well, what kind of ice cream DO you keep in your freezer.” After all, I’m still human, and ice cream is still a food group. I think my friends at Price Chopper will fall off their chairs when they hear the answer.

I’d like to say it’s Haagen Dazs. And sometimes it is. Honestly, it’s one of my favorite ice creams and if they came out with an organic version I would be all over that. I love their kitchen cabinet ingredients and I love the ice cream’s density and low air content.

But when I hear that it’s made with the finest ingredients I get so angry. Because while for many of their ingredients that might be quite true, they are still using conventional milk and cream. Even Walmart’s store brand of fluid milk is labeled with a pledge that’s opposed to rBST, but no such pledge can be found on a Haagen Dazs carton.

So most of the time I pass it by.

But in its place I do pick up something from one of my former clients. It may very well have the longest list of ingredients out of anything in our house.

I figure if I can’t get what I want in an ice cream, instead I’ll go for something that’s cheap, tasty, and doesn’t have a lot of fat or calories. That means if you were to look in my freezer on any given day, you’d most likely find a carton of Edy’s Slow Churned Low Fat Light Ice Cream.

Officially it’s not even ice cream. Ice cream by definition has to have a specific percentage of butterfat. This doesn’t. But I do happen to know a bit more about the “Slow Churned” process than your average bear, and it’s pretty interesting. I don’t know the mechanics or the science behind it, but they figured out an extrusion process that breaks up the fat molecules and more evenly distribute them through the finished product. That way a lesser amount of fat is perceived to be equally creamy and delicious.

The secret to getting a good Edy’s Slow Churned ice cream is to choose one with bits in it. Otherwise the texture seems a bit odd. But right now we’ve been eating the seasonal limited edition flavor of Thin Mint. It has crushed up Girl Scout cookies, so it scratches that itch too. Actually, I think it’s better than eating the cookies on their own. How Dreyer’s can live with themselves knowing they are stealing cookie sales from little girls is beyond me. But the Samoas flavor is fun too.

As it turns out, I’ll eat this ice cream a spoonful at a time. Mrs. Fussy on the other hand eats more than her fair share of the stuff. Often Young Master Fussy and I will hide it from her in the garage freezer, lest she find it and consume the contents before we’ve had a chance to enjoy a bowl ourselves.

So she doesn’t want it in the house. I think it’s disgusting, and filled with dreck, so I don’t want it in the house. Yet into the house it comes with surprising regularity. It’s the darnedest thing.

Just to show you, here are the ingredients to Fudge Tracks, one of Young Master Fussy’s favorite flavors:

Milk, Skim Milk, Cream, Sugar, Corn Syrup, Fudge Swirl (Sugar, Skim Milk, Corn Syrup, Cream, Water, Cocoa Processed with Alkali, Bitter Chocolate, Modified Tapioca Starch, Sodium Alginate, Salt), Peanut Butter Cups (This Ingredient is Processed in a Facility that Processes Peanuts and Tree Nuts) [Coating (Sugar, Coconut Oil, Cocoa Processed with Alkali, Milk, Skim Milk, Partially Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Soy Lecithin, Natural Flavors), Peanut Butter (Peanuts, Salt)], Whey Protein, Egg Yolks, Tapioca Maltodextrin, Cellulose Gum, Mono and Diglycerides, Natural Flavor, Guar Gum, Carrageenan, Dextrose, Annatto Color, Vitamin A Palmitate.

I actually take solace in knowing that at the very least there is no high fructose corn syrup on this list, nor artificial flavors or colors.

So yes, there are gums. But there are also gums in Ben & Jerry’s and Breyer’s. And yes, there is a trace amount of partially hydrogenated palm oil. And yes, this is made from conventionally produced milk and cream just like Haagen Dazs.

I think when push comes to shove, the gums infuriate me more than the rBST. So logically Haagen Dazs should be my ice cream of choice. But Mrs. Fussy won’t touch the stuff, it’s far too caloric and fatty for her taste. And I have a real bug up my ass because I can’t get over their claim, “We use only the purest ingredients…to craft the finest ice cream in the world.”

They are close, but they are not there quite yet. So instead, we get the junk. Now you know.

15 Comments leave one →
  1. Katie's avatar
    May 19, 2011 9:36 am

    Oh, man. I’m just catching up and I hadn’t noticed the Breyer’s changes. I am so bitter and angry that now I’m going to have to write them a letter.

  2. derryX's avatar
    May 19, 2011 10:08 am

    It is unrealistic to expect that everything you (or anybody) purchase would be of the highest quality all the time. We all have a preference of what’s good, but sometimes we have to settle for something good enough for dietary, financial, or marital reasons. Edy’s is pretty good for a non-soft serve ice cream fix!

  3. abby's avatar
    May 19, 2011 10:25 am

    If you’re going to make homemade ice cream ahead of time and store it in the freezer, the secret is to add booze near the end of the churning cycle. Vodka and Schnapps are my favorites, but you can use anything that wets your whistle.

    Chunks of fruit are best pre-soaked in booze to keep them from turning into ice cubes. I like to use fresh ripe peaches in SoCo.

  4. Elyse's avatar
    Elyse permalink
    May 19, 2011 10:31 am

    I dunno – when I make my own ice cream it keeps pretty well in the freezer. Maybe your recipes are off? I always start with a custard. Actually my home made ice creams are amazing. Ok, now I’m bragging.

    That said, when I am feeling lazy (which is most of the time) Edy’s slow churned is my supermarket ice cream of choice.

    By the way, if any of your readers find themselves in the pacific northwest, this is awesome ice cream:
    http://snoqualmieicecream.com

  5. Wendy's avatar
  6. G-LO's avatar
    May 19, 2011 11:19 am

    Turkey Hill Philadelphia Style is pretty damn good ice cream if you can find it. Here’s a link to their vanilla flavored ice cream: http://www.turkeyhill.com/products/all-natural-recipe-flavors.aspx?pID=100

    The ingredients are as follows: Cream, Nonfat Milk, Sugar, Vanilla, Vanilla Bean.

  7. KB @ Home-Baked Happiness's avatar
    May 19, 2011 12:38 pm

    I used to eat that stuff, too, ’cause it’s relatively healthy (slow-churned, I mean, less fattening). But then I realized that it tastes… gummy. There’s something they throw in there (algae extract, some rumor-monger once told me?) that makes the texture artificially thick, in a noticable way, to make up for the reduction in fat. Now, I notice it, and I can’t eat the stuff anymore.

  8. Dani's avatar
    May 19, 2011 3:15 pm

    Like Abby said, alcohol makes all the difference in homemade ice cream. You may want to check out the book The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz. It’s a fabulous ice cream making resource written by a fussy guy. He gets into frozen yogurt and sorbet, as well.

  9. Stevo's avatar
    Stevo permalink
    May 19, 2011 4:06 pm

    God I love Haagen Dazs. I think Hannaford does carry an organic ice cream in their Nature’s Place freezer section in at least some stores. I know for sure they carry Stoneyfield Farms frozen yogurt, which when compared to Edy’s Slow Churned, the two probably have a very similar texture.

  10. jess's avatar
    May 19, 2011 4:38 pm

    Ice cream is an indulgence so if I’m going to buy it, usually I’ll go for something more upscale. I love the Adirondack Creamery ice creams, especially the pistachio cardamom. It’s sooo good. I’ll also sometimes buy the Haagen Dasz “Five” ice creams (http://www.haagen-dazs.com/products/five.aspx.)

    But like the others, now that it’s almost summer, I’m ready to pull out the ice cream maker.

  11. EatPlayLove's avatar
    May 19, 2011 7:55 pm

    I recommend So Delicious “Purely Decadent” coconut milk frozen dessert. It would be silly to call it ice cream, but it comes in pints just like the real deal. I do eat dairy, but I have to admit, this stuff is brilliant.

    If you aren’t into the alternative, I’ve always been amazed at the flavor of Alden’s Organic Ice Cream, it comes in a larger container, 48 oz.

    As for Haagen-Daz, sounds exactly what I expect from a General Mills brand.

  12. Jennifer's avatar
    May 20, 2011 11:12 am

    I love Haagen-Daz. It always has been and I suspect always will be my favorite mass produced ice cream. It’s ice cream perfection if you don’t consider the rBST thing and in truth, I eat it so seldom that I don’t. Like Mrs. Fussy, I rarely allow it in the house because I will eat it all. And by all I mean the whole pint, possibly in one sitting. It’s ugly and usually ends in moaning and clutching my stomach as I am severely lactose intolerant.

    I do like to make ice cream at home and I’ve been experimenting with different milks. I made a pleasant ice cream from almond milk without suffering from tummy troubles. Coconut milk is next.

    Locally, aside from Adirondack Creamery, there’s also Battenkill Creamery and Ice Cream Man. Both are sold in some stores and both are really good though I have a preference for the Ice Cream Man.

  13. shawn's avatar
    shawn permalink
    May 20, 2011 12:20 pm

    Cook’s Illustrated did a review of some ice creams, including an Edy’s vanilla. One of their tests was to leave the ice cream out and see how long it took to melt and lose its shape. It’s a pretty good test of just how much gum is in it. The Edy’s looked like it hadn’t melted and held its shape for hours.

    That’s just nasty.

  14. irisira's avatar
    May 21, 2011 11:09 am

    Like Mrs. Fussy, I rarely allow it in the house because I will eat it all. And by all I mean the whole pint, possibly in one sitting. It’s ugly and usually ends in moaning and clutching my stomach as I am severely lactose intolerant.

    Jennifer, this exactly. Except I only have a mild sensitivity to lactose, so while I wouldn’t be clutching my stomach in pain, I would feel a general malaise, as well as massive guilt and shame for consuming all of that fat.

    But ohhhh, vanilla swiss almond, you ARE so delicious …

    I generally don’t keep ice cream in the house because of my lactose sensitivity. I LOVE ice cream, though, so I get it out as an occasional treat.

  15. Green Peccadilloes's avatar
    May 21, 2011 6:56 pm

    Maybe not something to generously dish out to the fussy kids as it’s not cheap, but you should treat yourself to a shipment of Jeni’s Splendid. Jeni has gone from a little store in Columbus with a local cult following to bordering on an empire, for good reason. Locally sourced when possible, no garbage and insanely yummy, creative flavors.

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