More Than Just Pizza

There is nothing like sitting down to four different pizzas from four different pizzerias on a regular and ongoing basis to give one a deeper understanding of the form.  As one of the judges from this year’s All Over Albany Tournament of Pizza, I have been lucky enough to have this opportunity.  But that conversation will need to wait until the tournament is over.

Last week, there was an interesting face-off in the Albany bracket.  The long-established and crowd favorite pub-style pizza from the Fountain went head to head with relative newcomer and last year’s TOP defending champ, Pasquale’s.  The kicker is that these two pizzerias are in the same strip of New Scotland Avenue, just about a block away from each other.

Thankfully, the judging was blind.  So while the judges knew we were tasting pizzas from Albany, we did not know for certain the gravitas of this showdown.  Pasquale’s won handily.  I cannot speak for the other judges, but you can see the results here.

The point is that despite Pasquale’s having better pizza, people prefer The Fountain.  And those people include my wife, Mrs. Fussy.

Sometimes it’s about more than just pizza.

Mrs. Fussy and I have been going to The Fountain for a couple of years.  It is another classic example of the Albany red-sauce Italian tavern.  Just recently I noticed they took the classic red and white checkered tablecloths off the tables, which gave it a less retro look.  But this place is burnished with the memories of decades.

And it’s a warm and inviting place.  It’s dark, yes.  But the atmosphere is friendly.  There always seem to be people at the tables and the small bar.  You can order pitchers of beer and relax with some pizza or wings in a family-friendly environment.

Mrs. Fussy finds it to be such a comfortable place that I have a difficult time convincing her to try some of the restaurants of the area that are rumored to be exceptional.

Plus while she prefers the pizza at Pasquale’s I have a difficult time getting her there, too.

There is no doubt that the pizza at Pasquale’s is the best in its neighborhood.  But I have never seen more than a few tables of people there, which doesn’t help enliven what is already a relatively stiff environment.  Especially for a pizza joint that sells its very tasty product by the slice.

A slice from Pasquale’s comes on a real plate.  Not a paper plate, or a simple sheet of waxed paper.  A real freaking plate!  It’s bizarre.  I suppose it’s more eco friendly, but I do not think that is the impetus behind the decision.

I always get the feeling that Pasquale’s has conflated being a high quality pizzeria with being a high quality restaurant.  It might explain the candles on the tables.  But it also probably explains their focus on quality ingredients, the amazing freshness of their sauce, and their exacting standards when it comes to the thinness of the crust.

Sadly, I will only get Mrs. Fussy there when we have to grab something quick to feed the family.  For that, Pasquale’s is the hands down winner.  But really, that should be the role of a pizza parlor.  And that’s what Pasquale’s is, although it would be nice if they could loosen up a bit.

Warmth is the purview of taverns.  Some have better food than others.  Most in this area serve pizza.  Yes, The Fountain lost in round one, but pub pizza really shines when it’s covered with toppings.  It’s less about being good pizza, and more about being a topping delivery vehicle loaded with soothing cheese.  Plus, it gives you something to do with your mouth between sips of beer.

Personally, the last couple of times we went to The Fountain the pizza was not what it used to be, and Mrs. Fussy is going to have a difficult time getting me back there in the future.

But luckily one thing Albany is rich in is taverns.  If one is slipping, there are plenty of others to choose from.  Great pizza, on the other hand, is a much rarer commodity.