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Eat Up Me Hearties, Fro Yo

August 21, 2012

Yesterday, half in jest, I suggested that this might be Ice Cream Sandwich week on the FLB. The closest link I can draw between frozen yogurt and ice cream sandwiches is that they are both frozen novelties. However, I take the standards of identity very seriously when it comes to ice cream. That means if you put some frozen yogurt between two cookies and tried to call it an ice cream sandwich, well, let’s just say we would have words.

On this last trip to Providence I stepped foot into Pinkberry for the very first time. And there I got a glimpse of the cup of frozen yogurt with a pizzelle sticking out of the bowl. That comes dangerously close to ice cream sandwich territory. But an open faced ice cream sandwich, is also not actually an ice cream sandwich. Plus this was yogurt, so it was doomed from the start.

I mention all of this because I’ve had frozen yogurt on the mind a lot lately. The kids love it. My kids love it too. And you know what? I don’t think all of it is entirely awful. In fact, after going to Pinkberry, I have come to realize a few important things about the newest incarnation of this once popular strip mall delight.

Realization #1
Paying by the ounce is totally better than paying for unlimited toppings.

The FroYo shops that riffed off the Pinkberry model with tart flavors and endless toppings improved upon the experience when they decided to charge by the ounce. It’s a pleasure to have someone craft your bowl of FroYo to your exacting specifications. It’s even a ton of fun to have as many toppings that can comfortably fit into a bowl. Yeah, and it’s also probably a lot more sanitary to have just a few people touching all the food. But oddly, I’m not really a germaphobe.

The problem is that I usually don’t want that many toppings. In fact, I often want just a few. And that’s not how Pinkberry is set up. If you choose to create these phantasmagorical creations, filled with sugar cereal, fruit flavored boba pearls, and candy, well then maybe Pinkberry is the place for you.

But for those of us who enjoy a couple ounces of original tart yogurt, with just a bit of fresh diced mango as a small indulgence, I found this Mecca of the form to be a bit wanting.

Realization #2
All of these FroYo places are going out of business.

Sure, they are totally packed now. But there are some things that just feel faddish. Do you remember Pogs? Or more recently those silly band bracelets? I kind of feel sorry for all the small business owners who go into this space, seeing the money, and thinking it’s a good idea to invest in the concept.

I really really hope in their break-even calculations they have anticipated that there will be no market for these places in five years. Maybe, just maybe, a few operators can squeeze a bit more life from this thing. But look at Coldstone Creamery. Just a couple of years ago, they had a line out the door. Now that line has moved to the local yogurt shop which has taken customization to the next level.

Forget that the market is already oversaturated. People are just going to get tired of the novelty and move onto the next thing.

Realization #3
It’s the companies selling the FroYo machines and accessories that are making a killing.

There’s got to be a lesson in this about making money in the food business. It’s somewhere between, “There’s always money in the banana stand” and “¡Soy loco por los Cornballs!” Damned if I know.

6 Comments leave one →
  1. WrigsMac's avatar
    August 21, 2012 10:47 am

    Remember Alf? He’s back…in pog form!

    FroYo is probably less deadly than the cornballer (unless you die from the bacteria spread on those DIY topping stations) but I think you’re right about them being a fad. I thought they were a fad back in the early 90’s; that’s when we had a bunch of TCBY’s open and then close a few years later in Illinois. But I know things are a little slow to catch on in the Capital District.

  2. Wendy's avatar
    August 21, 2012 10:58 am

    TCBY was here, and gone, and now back again. Plus there’s 16 Handles, and a few others around that I can’t recall. A recycled fad, but a fad nonetheless. I do prefer the new shop model to the old – I like to add my own toppings.

    They’re smart letting you fill your own (freakishly large) bowl and charging by the ounce, too – very easy to pull yourself a gluttonous amount of froyo, plus all those toppings. A friend (seriously, a friend – not me) paid over $22 recently for three sundaes at TCBY. At 49 cents an ounce, that nearly 14 ounces per person! Yikes.

  3. Capitol to Capital's avatar
    August 21, 2012 11:15 am

    I’m a fan of the make your own fro yo cups, although it’s easy for me to go overboard. HOWEVER, I like that it’s possible to make a fairly healthy (fruit + nuts + nonfat yogurt) snack, and that’s worth $4-5. When you have a late brunch and need to make it until dinner and you’re out and about, it’s pretty sweet. I like that they have cones at TCBY, but they are a bit thin so you might need a spoon as the cone breaks. The other day I managed to have all but 3 flavors (I guess I had 4 “twists”) with no toppings. Yum. It may be a fad, but I’ll enjoy it as long as it lasts.

  4. KB @ Home-Baked Happiness's avatar
    August 21, 2012 11:36 am

    I still haven’t tried Coldstone … if I’m gonna spend that much money on ice cream, might as well go to Ben & Jerry’s, which I already know is good.

    I love froyo places (went to 16 Handles just yesterday, in fact), but there are already too many of them. Plum Dandy, awesome. 16 Handles, still good. A place or two in Albany, cool. But a place on every corner is too much. We’ve already jumped the shark here.

  5. Mike W's avatar
    August 21, 2012 6:27 pm

    Yes! Arrested Development reference! Have you tried the new place in Crossgates? I believe it’s called Yeh! and is pay by the ounce.

  6. Jessica R's avatar
    August 22, 2012 12:22 pm

    I think you are making a vast, unsubstaniated statement be saying they are all going out of business. Do you know of any that are going out of business? Sure, it may be a fad, but with any business venture the top quality players will stay in the game the longest, and others will go under. You shouldn’t go around suggesting people shouldn’t open fro-yo shops without evidence it is a bad business decision. I just was in Dante’s in Troy yesterday, and the place was PACKED! PACKED! I’m sure they aren’t regretting opening that business.

    By the way, have you been to Dante’s yet? If not, get yourself over there – I think they stand for everything you stand for. They are very open to customer suggestions, and their flavors rotate regularly – my favorites so far are espresso and red velvet cupcake.
    This is from their website

    “We use a high quality premium ALL NATURAL yogurt product made using real dairy, FRESH milk, REAL fruit purees with a high count of beneficial live yogurt CULTURES and PROBIOTICS, which is low in sodium and cholesterol. The final product is SMOOTH and CREAMY with every spoonful. If ever you have tasted frozen yogurt that has that grainy texture that’s light on flavor and high on unpleasantness, then you will know what we mean when we say all frozen yogurt isn’t created equal!
    All the frozen yogurt we serve at Dante’s has the loved and revered Certified Live and Active Cultures!
    For all those science types who must know, we use the following: L. bulgaricus, L. acidophilus, S. thermophilus and B. lactis”

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