The Wheelhouse
A few years ago there was a stretch when I wrote about Chipotle. A lot. Now I’m concerned that history is repeating itself with All Good Bakers. I have to stop. And I will.
But I was one of only twenty attendees on their first evening serving dinner. Plus there has been not just one, but two posts on the subject leading up to last night’s event. So I think it’s reasonable that some people will be curious to hear my impressions.
I don’t do impressions. And for the record, there were other bloggers there in addition to an official photographer. So here’s what I’ll do. I’ll try to talk about them and their food as little as possible in this post about last night.
Bet you don’t think that’s even possible.
I had a great time last night, and I would recommend that everyone look at their calendars to find a Wednesday this summer that works for them. Then call in later today to reserve a spot for one of the two seatings. Because I expect these things to fill up, and I’m pretty sure the dinners will get better and better.
Last week I compared this style of eating to Chez Panisse. And I should probably be careful with the comparison because the two are very different, if ideologically the same. The meal I had at this mecca of California cuisine in Berkeley is emblazoned in my mind. It started with white asparagus and fava bean toast, moved on to a morel mushroom ravioli, then there was a trio of lamb, followed by a fruity dessert of sorbet, ice cream, strawberries and meringue.
Not all of it was brilliant.
The dishes where Chez Panisse really showed its stuff, were the ones where fresh fruits and vegetables were front and center. The asparagus was incredibly delicious and well thought out and the fruit dessert (which sounded horribly muddled on paper) was an amazing combination of textures and flavors.
Every place has the things that it does well. Sometimes that’s only one thing, like Bob & Ron’s fried clam strips.
The thing that can get tricky is when a place thinks they make something amazing, that may be quite good, but isn’t up to the same level. I’m thinking about DeFazio’s pizza and how they submitted one of their whole wheat crusts into the Tournament of Pizza finals. I know people order their whole wheat crusts all the time. And I don’t doubt they are the best whole wheat crusts you’ll find on any pizza for 100 miles. But they just can’t compete with their classic white flour dough.
Knowing what you know about All Good Bakers, I’m guessing you could look at the pictures of the four dishes from last night’s dinner and identify which two are most clearly in the restaurant’s wheelhouse.
Really, I want you to look at these pictures and choose two.
Asparagus soup with sage crème fraîche.
Spicy greens with smoked duck breast and johnnycake.
Smoked trout, braised short rib, pickled carrots, radish puree and greens.
Strawberry rhubarb tart with lemon curd vanilla bean ice cream.
So what two did you pick? The one thing I didn’t take a picture of, which also clearly played to their strengths, was the green garlic butter with the herbed focaccia.
Delightful surprises from the night were:
– How much I enjoyed the raw spicy greens from Farmer Jon
– Learning the smoked duck breast is available for sale at The Cheese Traveler
– Solstice Hill Farm radish puree is delicious and apparently easy to make
– Lemon curd vanilla bean ice cream
Chez Panisse fell down when they attempted to put meat on the center of the plate. Regardless of how much that lamb was loved when it was alive, and what kind of delicious things it was fed, a large portion of meat can get awfully tedious. Especially when it is bookended with much more vibrant and exciting dishes.
Surely as the dinners at AGB progress they will evolve. I know that Nick has a head that’s already swimming with ideas. He will take risks. Some will pay off. Others won’t. But that’s part of the excitement of it all.
And I left, not just satisfied, but inspired by new things I can do with seasonal foods. I also may need to learn how to make johnnycakes. Like, now.
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You are going to pick 1 and 4, but the correct answer is 2 and 4. The soup was a bit light for my taste while the johnnycake and the sriracha infused in Britin’s home made and melted butter for dipping were as good as it gets. Nick’s focaccia and its green garlic butter were also magnificent. As were the trout and those pickled baby carrots.
The only thing I didn’t finish was the short rib; it was a bit dry and underdone so I took it home to remedy. It’s now slowly cooking in its own juices on my stovetop and smells like the world’s best bacon. Lunch.
We’re so happy you joined us DB! Thank you for giving us so much blog space this week – Nick was really in his element yesterday, and we’re beyond excited to be doing these summer dinners. Wish my creme fraiche for the soup had set up, but alas, I started culturing it on Tues am when the cream came from Meadowbrook and it really needs two days to thicken properly. That was my only stress yesterday during prep. We hope everyone who joined us this week enjoyed the meal and experience! We’re starting to fill up for the summer way in advance (a certain news reporter and friends booked the whole room for a group date night in August before they left last night!). We are extremely grateful the dinners are catching on. Your very kind words have helped tremendously!
Now I am even MORE excited to go this summer. I had another engagement last night so I had to miss the inaugural event.
yep- 2 & 4, great to see the pictures!
My choices from the photos are 2 and 4. My other commitment last night was canceled and I was so salty that I missed the opportunity to attend the dinner.
It was an extreme pleasure to enjoy Nick & Britin’s dinner last night. I have been amazed by everything that they creates as long as I have known them. If I had to pick two it would be hard, however that duck breast was amazing, I could have a whole dinner done just on that alone, smoked so well it reminded me of a cross between a bacon and a fine prosciutto. And to me the short rib had an amazing glaze and I could not get enough of that radish puree. I look forward to spending many a Wednesday night there, I just hope they find room… I’ll take mine curbside in the car if I have to!
I got a couple of shots of the green garlic butter with the herbed focaccia, but not sure how they turned out yet – will check later at home. If there was a pic of that here I would surely pick that # & 4 – although there were other flavors I liked as well in 2 & 3. Overall, I was pleased and full when I left. Mission accomplished – and I thank AGB for a wonderful night – hats off to you too DB for keeping me company – it was an honor to meet you and talk about lots of things with you.
2 and 4 were most obviously in their wheelhouse, but the offerings that really stood out for us were the focaccia with green garlic butter, the trout, and the tart. I agree with Burnt My Fingers that the only misstep was the short rib… my guess is that there may have been a timing issue involved, since longer braising would have made this dish much more tender. But the experience was wonderful – thanks so much for Nick and Britin for making us feel so welcome – and we look forward to returning soon! (Incidentally, I too was pleased to see that The Cheese Traveler offers the smoked duck breast that was served on the greens… it really provided a tremendous contrast to their bitterness.)
And, the best quote of the day goes to Daniel B: “Regardless of how much that lamb was loved when it was alive, and what kind of delicious things it was fed, a large portion of meat can get awfully tedious.”