Rocking Breakfast – Recipe #8

Secrets. I hate ‘em. And I’m terrible at keeping them. But I’ve been holding onto this one for a while. Today, we’re letting the cat out of the bag. And I say “we” because really it’s not my secret. I suppose it belongs to chef Josh Coletto.

He and I worked out a deal a few months ago. I’d remind people when it’s time for his monthly Rock N Roll Brunch at The Low Beat in Albany, and in exchange he would share one of his recipes from the prior month’s menu. The triumph and tragedy of these brunches are that the menu changes each time. I actually met someone who simply orders one of everything, and brings her own takeout containers to pack up the vast majority of what she can’t finish.

This is the kind of madness scarcity breeds. But ordering the whole menu is a brilliant solution.

Last month I just had to get the breakfast poutine. So did everyone, it seemed. The dish was a smashing success and sold out, even if it may not have fulfilled the dreams of those looking for squeaky curds tossed with hot fries and gravy. But man, Josh does gravy well. And a poached egg on top? But perhaps my favorite part was the crispy rounds of tender, succulent local beef.

As I was eating the poutine and remarking on the amazing flavor and texture of the meat, I found myself saying, “I have no idea how he even cooked this, but it’s wonderful.” Well, I found out. And now, I get to share. Here’s what Josh has to say:

Some of my favorite foods are things people seem scared to try. A certain stigma has been associated with offal meats for a very long time and it’s about time we break that nonsense. At last month’s Rock N Roll brunch, the French Canadian classic poutine was on the menu. French Fries, cheese curds, gravy, kinderhook farms beef, egg, and pickled beet relish. I thought it sounded delicious! Needless to say it sold out and many people seemed to thoroughly enjoy it, what wasn’t said…was that the Kinderhook Farm beef…was in fact…Tongue!

Crispy Braised Beef Tongue

2 beef tongues
3 guajillo chilies
1/2 cup shiitake mushroom stems or 4 dried shiitakes
1 onion
6 cloves garlic
2 carrots
2 celery stalks
2 bay leaves
2 cups red wine (beaujolais nouveau)
handful of fresh thyme
salt and pepper!

Directions
1.) Peel onion, cut in half and throw on an open flame (or in a 500 degree oven) and allow to blacken.
2.) Place all ingredients, including the freshly blackened onion into a roasting pan.
3.) Add water to just cover the beef tongue, cover the roasting pan and seal best possible.
4.) Place into oven preheated at 300 degrees for about 8 hours (or until a fork goes in easily).
5.) Pull from oven and allow to cool for 20-30 minutes, remove beef tongue onto a separate pan.
6.) Peel the beef tongue! It can be done easily without any tools if it is cooked tender enough.

The beef tongue can be eaten now, and it will most certainly be delicious (lengua tacos? YES). However, at the last brunch I took it a little further to add more texture which I thought would really compliment the Poutine.

7.) Strain the liquid and reserve to make a gravy or freeze and use as stock for any other application.
8.) Allow beef tongues to cool completely in the refrigerator. Once cool and more solid. slice across the tongue into 1/2in thick pieces.
9.) Preheat a cast iron pan over high heat with a little olive oil until it just starts to smoke. Sear the beef tongue on both sides until a nice dark brown crust is formed.
10.) Serve any way you see fit, like on top of a pile of french fries, cheese curds and gravy. Or over a rice pilaf, or on a sandwich, or directly out of the pan.

I’m doing this. And thanks to Jon in Albany, I find myself still sitting on a beef tongue.

It’s with a heavy heart that I won’t be in attendance this Sunday for Rock N Roll Brunch XIV. The menu looks incredible. I’m not so into the sweets, but this month feels heavy on the savories. Lamb Benedict sounds amazing, but I’m also tempted by the sprouted lentil pancakes with pulled pork, and even the vegan breakfast bruschetta which is topped with all kinds of spring delights.

Man, I love how this guy cooks and how he thinks about food. That’s why I continue to highlight his foraged spring dinner in the top right corner of the blog. Tickets sales have really started to move as the event gets closer. By my count there are only five remaining. It’s a rare chance to try Josh’s food without having to wait in line for half an hour or more.

Seriously, I don’t know why Josh continues to feed me recipes. With lines around the corner before the doors open at 10:30 am his brunch needs no promotion. But I’m glad that we’re still doing this, because I’m totally making that tongue. And bravo to him for pushing people past their comfort zone, even if they were unaware the whole time.

I can’t wait to see what he does next.